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How to Grow Practically Everything
How to Grow Practically Everything
DK, Zia Allaway, Lia LeendertzFrom planting herbs to creating a kitchen garden, How to Grow Practically Everything gives beginning gardeners the confidence to grow flowers, fruits, and more.
Whether readers want to grow a lemon from a seed, care for a houseplant, or plant a rose arch, each gardening project is presented with clear instructions and photography, sharing the best time to plant, when to expect results, and the equipment and time required.
Categories:
Housekeeping, leisure\\Garden, garden
Jahr:
2010
Verlag:
DK Publishing
Sprache:
english
Seiten:
450
ISBN 10:
0756670012
ISBN 13:
9780756670016
File:
PDF, 24.06 MB
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HOW TO GROW PRACTICALLY EVERYTHING 100 S OF GARDENING PROJECTS ABSOLUTELY ANYONE CAN DO HOW TO GROW PRACTICALLY EVERYTHING ZIA ALLAWAY LIA LEENDERTZ LONDON, NEW YORK, MUNICH, MELBOURNE, DELHI Senior Editor Zia Allaway Senior Designer Lucy Parissi Project Editor Caroline Reed US Editor Jill Hamilton Editors Chauney Dunford, Becky Shackleton Designer Francesca Gormley Picture Research Jenny Baskaya, Lucy Claxton Jacket Design Duncan Turner Production Editor Joanna Byrne Production Controller Imogen Boase Managing Editor Esther Ripley Managing Art Editor Alison Donovan Publisher Jonathan Metcalf Art Director Bryn Walls RHS Publisher Susannah Charlton RHS Editor Rae Spencer-Jones Photography Brian North, Peter Anderson Additional text Jenny Hendy First published in the United States in 2010 by DK Publishing 375 Hudson Street New York, New York 10014 10 11 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 176547—March 2010 Copyright © 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISBN: 978-0-7566-3341-7 DK books are available at special discounts when purchased in bulk for sales promotions, premiums, fund-raising, or educational use. For details, contact: DK Publishing Special Markets, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 or SpecialSales@dk.com Printed and bound by Star Standard, Singapore IMPORTANT NOTICE The author and the publishers can accept no liability for any harm, damage, or illness arising from the use or misuse of the plants described in this book. Discover more at www.dk.com Foreword Growing plants is easy when you kn; ow how. Most plants will flourish with just a little help, and you don’t need any special skills to sow seeds to create beds brimming with flowers and vegetables, or to pot up containers to paint your patio with color. Follow the step-by-step guides to grow almost anything your heart desires, from spring bulbs and easy-care shrubs in a border, to a tiny orchard or bed filled with tasty root crops. To make life even easier, we’ve included lots of hints and tips to make sure that your plants thrive. And if you need inspiration when choosing a plant for a particular place or purpose, take a look at the “Selections” spreads, which showcase a range of options. The book is split into eight chapters: the first is an introduction to plants and soil—a good starting point for beginners before planning or planting. The following chapters offer a feast of ideas for different areas of the garden, fruit and vegetable plot, and your home. There is also a chapter on water and wildlife gardening. Browse through to see what intrigues you, and use the quick checklists to discover how much time each project will take, and the tools and plants you will need. To conclude, there’s advice on garden care and maintenance, as well as tips on keeping pests and diseases at bay, equipping you with everything you need to know to create a beautiful, bountiful garden. ZIA ALLAWAY LIA LEENDERTZ Contents GARDENING BASICS 8 Identify plant types How plants grow and reproduce Understand soil Choose a garden style Plan your planting Prepare to plant Essential tools Seasonal planner 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 BEAUTIFUL BEDS 26 Create a new border Build a decorative edge Plant a spring border Create a shady shrub border Selections: Spring bulbs Plant spring bulbs Early summer color Grow acid lovers Plant a fiery border 28 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 Selections: Scented plants Fragrant border Ornamental grass bed Make a family garden Create a shady rockery Selections: Plants for dry shade Tropical retreat Plant bare-root bamboo Sow sunflowers and annuals Cottage garden planting Selections: Cottage garden plants Prairie-style planting Flowers for cutting and drying Planting for texture Gravel gardens Selections: Mediterranean plants Planting by a hedge Easy-care border Design with gabions Grow dahlias and cannas 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 Selections: Dramatic dahlias Modern mixed planting Contemporary rose garden Autumn border Selections: Jewel-like berries Simple topiary Colorful winter border 88 90 92 94 96 98 100 CREATIVE CONTAINERS 102 Choose containers Colorful spring bulb pots Sow summer bedding How to plant up pots Selections: Foolproof seeds Spring wallflowers Grasses from seed Spiky plants Climbers in containers Grow plants from plugs Selections: Plants for shade 104 106 108 110 112 114 115 116 118 120 122 Plant fragrant lilies Cottage-style containers Exotic combinations Plant a summer hanging basket Selections: Summer basket plants Containers from cast-offs Grow succulents and alpines Plant patio roses Contemporary container display Selections: Contemporary pots Bamboos in containers Creative topiary for planters Pots of autumn color Evergreen shrub display Selections: Shrubs for pots Patio with tiered beds Plant a winter hanging basket Year-on-year Christmas tree Pots of colorful hostas Plant a winter windowbox 124 126 128 130 132 134 136 138 140 142 144 146 148 150 152 154 156 158 160 162 Selections: Winter patio plants Add height to container displays Create table-top color Plant up a roof terrace Braid a bay tree 164 166 168 170 172 STRUCTURAL FEATURES 174 Choose a tree 176 How to plant a tree 178 Grow a tree fern 180 Make multistemmed trees 182 Selections: Trees for small spaces 184 Create a laburnum walkway 186 Grow trees from seeds 188 Grow an ornamental cherry 190 Plant an informal hedge 192 Selections: Hedge plants 194 Plant a formal hedge 196 Scented lavender hedge 198 Plant Mediterranean wall pots 200 Create a plant checkerboard 202 Selections: Plants for crevices 204 Turf a lawn 206 Seed a lawn Plant spring bulbs in a lawn How to plant a climber Selections: Clematis Make an obelisk for climbers Plant a clematis Grow decorative vines Make a rose arch Selections: Climbers for arches Plant wisteria Grow scented sweet peas Prune stems for winter color Weave a living screen Plant wall shrubs Selections: Decorative catkins Grow climbers for winter color Create standard shrubs Choose compact conifers Plant for all-season color 208 210 212 214 216 219 220 222 224 226 228 230 232 234 236 238 240 242 244 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES 246 Grow a row of beans Create a patio kitchen garden 248 250 Plant potatoes Build a timber raised bed Root crops for raised beds Selections: Raised bed options Plant crops in pots Grow easy leaf crops Winter-cropping vegetables Sprouting seeds and beans Selections: Edible flowers Plant onions and garlic Tomatoes in bags Peas and pods Sweet squash Selections: Squash and pumpkins Sow chilies Grow mushrooms using a kit Corn and broad beans Make a vegetable windowbox Grow your own salads Selections: Salad leaves Strawberries in pots Raspberries and blackberries Grow super fruits 252 254 256 258 260 262 264 266 268 270 272 274 276 278 280 281 282 284 286 288 290 292 294 Fruit for small spaces Selections: Fruit for containers Rhubarb and blueberries Thai herbs and spices Grow citrus fruit Nuts for the garden Create a herb parterre Selections: Herbs Tomato and herb basket Make a herb circle Grow figs and peaches Train fruit trees Plant a tiny orchard 296 298 300 302 304 306 308 310 312 314 316 318 320 WILDLIFE GARDENING 322 Make a wildlife pond Plant up your pond Plant a fishpond Create a bog garden Selections: Bog plants Plant a boggy pot Create a lush stream-side Make a barrel pool 324 327 328 330 332 334 336 338 Create a small lily pond Selections: Water lilies Make an urn fountain Plant trees for wildlife Sow a flower meadow Plant a bed for bees Selections: Plants for insects Create a home for wildlife Install a green roof Make garden compost How to make leafmold Make homes for birds and bees 340 342 344 346 348 350 352 354 356 358 360 362 PLANTS FOR YOUR HOME 364 Dramatic amaryllis Group houseplants Make an indoor hanging basket Selections: Orchids How to grow exotic orchids Create an orchid display Force spring bulbs in winter House plants as focal points Selections: Shade-lovers 366 368 370 372 374 376 378 380 382 Flowering house plants Grow indoor ferns Plant a collection of cacti Selections: Desert dwellers All-year care for poinsettias Bring plants back into flower Grow silver-leaved begonias Selections: Winter flowers 384 386 388 390 392 394 396 398 PLANT CARE 400 Tackle weeds Feed your plants Watering methods Frost protection Pruning tips How to prune shrubs Pruning clematis and roses Plant propagation Lawn care Pest control Disease control Index Suppliers 402 404 406 408 410 412 414 416 422 424 430 434 446 Gardening Basics Explore the world of plants and flowers to find out how they grow, and the best ways to care for them. Then, find out more about soil types and aspect to make sure you match your plants to the conditions in your garden. Equipped with this information, the fun can begin: put together a tool kit, decide on your style, design a planting plan, and start choosing plants and seeds. Finally, browse through the “Seasonal Planner” on pages 24–25 to discover what should be done when. << GARDENING BASICS Identifying plant types Does your garden lack color or structure, and would it benefit from more glitz or a greater sense of permanence? Different types of plant have different roles to play, and understanding what each one can bring will help you make your garden more beautiful, and create year-round interest. 1 ANNUALS 2 BIENNIALS 3 PERENNIALS 4 GRASSES These plants germinate, grow, flower, set seed, and die all in one year. They are bold and colorful, and quickly gone, although hardy ones may selfseed and appear the next year. Much like annuals, biennials are short-lived, but spread their time over two years, growing in the first, flowering in the second. They too are used as colorful bedding plants. Perennials are the mainstays of flower gardens, producing their flowers and foliage year after year. Most die down in winter and produce a fresh crop of leaves every spring. Some ornamental grasses are evergreen and keep their leaves all year, while others die back. They create movement and light in the garden, and many have striking winter skeletons. 5 SHRUBS 6 TREES 7 CLIMBERS 8 AQUATICS Deciduous or evergreen, these plants form the backbone of the garden. Shrubs have a woody framework and create a permanent structure. Many also produce attractive flowers and berries. For privacy, enclosure, and a sense of permanence, plant a tree. Evergreens provide color all year, while deciduous species bring young spring leaves and blossom, autumn color, and a wintry outline. Scrambling up walls and across trellises, climbers soften the sharp lines of hard landscaping, and they can also be grown through shrubs and trees. Many have beautiful flowers, and some are scented. If you have a pond, there is a wide range of plants to consider, from marginals with ornamental foliage or flowers that thrive in shallow water, to spectacular deep-water aquatics, such as water lilies. 11 12 GARDENING BASICS >> How plants grow One of the pleasures of gardening is that it gives you the chance to watch nature at work. As soon as you put a plant in the ground, a cycle of growth and reproduction begins. Learn what plants need to grow strong and healthy, and you can help them to put on their best performance. Vital supplies Plants need water, air, nutrients, and light to thrive, and when first planted they are dependent on you to provide them. Neglect them at this stage and they are unlikely to survive. LIGHT REQUIREMENTS Plants make energy from sunlight through photosynthesis, and can thrive only if they receive the right amount for their needs. Different plants have evolved to survive in different conditions, and some love shade, while others prefer their heads in the sun. Plants also offer clues about the conditions they enjoy—those with small hairy or gray leaves, such as lavender, enjoy sunny sites, and those with large, dark green leaves grow well in shade. When choosing plants, check their light requirements and plant them in an appropriate place. Young plants are particularly vulnerable to poor light conditions and will struggle to establish if the sun is blocked by weeds, so keep the area around them free of competing plants as they mature. REGULAR WATER SUPPLIES When young, all plants need regular watering because their small root systems are unable to search for moisture if it doesn’t come to them. You can encourage your plants to develop deep, self-sustaining root systems by watering occasionally but deeply, using one large watering can per plant. Moisture then seeps deep into the soil, and the roots reach down to find it. SOIL NEEDS Plants love to sink their roots into aerated, moist yet well-drained soil. To achieve these ideal conditions, dig in plenty of organic matter, such as well-rotted manure or mushroom compost (see pp.14–15) before planting, and spread a thick layer on the soil surface in spring. Earthworms will then drag it down into the soil, where it will gradually improve drainage and water-retention capacity, ensuring that your soil contains all the nutrients and moisture necessary for seeds to germinate and roots to explore. 1 Sunflowers literally love their heads in the sun and the blooms follow its path throughout the day. 2 Earthworms produce gums that bind soil particles together, improving the soil structure. 3 Water young plants regularly to help their roots establish. << GARDENING BASICS How plants reproduce All plants are designed to ensure their survival or that of the next generation, but they go about it in different ways. Some produce copious numbers of seeds, while others reproduce vegetatively, extending their root systems through the soil. a Hungry roots The area close to the root tips is covered in tiny hairs that absorb nutrients dissolved in the soil water. Take care not to damage these. MAKING SEED ROOTING AROUND Plants with colorful, nectar-filled flowers attract pollinating insects that pick up pollen from one flower and transfer it to another. This process activates plants’ sexual reproduction and prompts the flowers to start developing into seeds. The benefit of reproducing sexually is that every seedling has a slightly different genetic makeup, and when adverse conditions hit, only the fittest survive to breed again, strengthening the species. Many creepers and climbers throw out long stems above ground that produce roots when they touch the soil. The roots of others clump up and spread gradually, while some send up shoots from long, extended roots. The danger of vegetative reproduction is that it produces a less diverse population, which is more vulnerable to changing conditions. This is why plants that reproduce asexually also flower and set seed, just in case. FOOD FOR THOUGHT Plants feed via their roots, removing minerals dissolved in water in the soil. They are constantly seeking new areas to exploit and form a large underground network, so that when one area dries out or is killed off, other roots can be relied upon to take over and keep the plant alive. In a natural environment, the plant population will adjust to the nutrients that are available. In a well-stocked garden where plants are growing closely together you will need to top-up the nutrient level regularly by applying fertilizer and organic matter, such as well-rotted manure. Organic fertilizers are a good choice for borders because they release nutrients slowly, feeding plants for a season, and do not harm beneficial soil organisms. You can also apply fertilizer to the leaves with a foliar feed. If a plant is suffering from a trace element deficiency, such as iron or manganese, a spray of foliar fertilizer can quickly improve its health. Apply fertilizer to the backs of leaves where they can absorb it more easily. 1 Insects, such as bees, transfer pollen from one plant to another, which activates sexual reproduction. 2 The male pollen grains fertilize female parts of the flower, stimulating the production of seeds. 3 The arching shoots of brambles start to grow roots when they touch the soil, producing a new plant. 4 Bamboos throw out long underground roots called “runners,” which in turn generate shoots that grow to form new plants. 13 14 GARDENING BASICS >> Understanding soil Your most important task as a gardener is to gain an understanding of soil. Your soil type determines what will grow well and what will fail, so save yourself heartache and miserable plants by spending a little time getting to know the soil in your garden and how to make the most of it. TESTING YOUR SOIL SANDY SOIL There are two main types of soil particle: sand and clay. Sand particles are relatively large and water drains freely through the spaces between them, while clay particles are tiny and trap moisture in the miniscule gaps. They are also slightly absorbent. This explains why sandy soils are dry and clay soils are moisture-retentive. Most soils are a mixture of both, but tend toward one or the other, but the ideal is “loam,” which contains almost equal measures of sand and clay. Loam retains enough water for plant roots to use, but also drains away excess moisture to prevent waterlogging. Test your soil type by digging some up and rolling it between your fingers. When rolled between the fingers, sandy soil feels gritty, and when you try to mold it into a ball or sausage shape, it falls apart. It is also generally pale in color. The benefits of sandy soils are that they are light and well drained, and easy to work. Mediterranean plants are happiest in sandy soil, because they never suffer TOP TIP: TESTING ACIDITY i Shapeless and gritty Samples of sandy soil feel gritty and when you try to roll them into a ball, they simply fall apart, even when wet. CLAY SOIL Roll clay between your fingers and it feels smooth and dense, and retains its shape when molded into a ball. Soils very rich in clay will not crack even when rolled into a horseshoe shape. Sticky and impossible to dig when wet; solid, cracked and impenetrable when dry, clay soils are hard to work. But in return, when looked after A simple pH test, available from the garden center, will tell you how acidic (lime-free) or alkaline (lime-rich) your soil is, and this will determine the range of plants you can grow. Add the supplied solution to a small sample of your soil in the tube provided. Wait until the solution changes color, then match the color to the chart. from soggy roots. However, their poor water-holding capacity makes sandy soils prone to drought and lacking nutrients because nutrients are dissolved in water. correctly, they have excellent waterretaining properties, and are rich in nutrients. Greedy rose bushes and fruit trees love to sink their roots into them. i Smooth and sticky Like the material used for making pots, clay soils feel smooth and pliable. Roll them into a ball or sausage and they will retain their shape. << IMPROVING YOUR SOIL Whether you have a dry sandy soil or a sticky clay, the prescription is the same: lots and lots of organic matter, such as well-rotted manure, spent mushroom compost, and garden compost. These bind together sandy soils and loosen dense clay soils, so ladle them on. GARDENING BASICS Sun or shade? Some plants like a hot spot, and enjoy basking in the sun all day long, while others prefer cool shade. Find out what your garden has to offer before you buy or start planting. ASPECT EXPLAINED a Fork in manure Regular applications of manure and other types of organic matter will help to alleviate every problem related to soil type. LIGHTENING CLAY Horticultural grit helps improve drainage in clay soils. Dig it into the soil over a large area, rather than using it to line the base of planting holes. In heavy downpours grit-lined planting holes act as sump pumps and water pools around the roots of plants, which can kill them. a Add grit To improve the structure of heavy clay soil, spread a thick layer of horticultural grit over a large area, and then dig it in. a Using a compass Line the red arrow up with north on your compass to discover your garden’s aspect. CHECK YOUR PLOT Patterns of sun and shade change throughout the day, and a garden that is in full sun at midday may have dark pools of shade by late afternoon, so spend some time watching your garden on a sunny day and make a note of the way shadows move around the plot. You can then plan what to plant where and identify areas for seating. Remember, too, that the patterns change depending on the season. A garden can look very different in low-light winter conditions, and areas that are in full sun for half the day in summer may not get any at this time of the year. To assess light and shade, take pictures of your garden at different times of the day. This north-west-facing garden has been shot morning, noon, and evening. 1 The patio is partially shaded in the morning. 2 Most of this large garden is sunny at midday because the house is not tall enough to cast shade over it. 3 Sun floods the whole patio in the evening. Stand with your back to each of your boundaries and use a compass to figure out the direction that they face. Those facing south will be in the sun all day and hot, while those pointing north will be in shade most of the time and cooler. East-facing areas offer morning sun and evening shade, while the opposite applies to those facing west. 15 16 GARDENING BASICS >> Choosing a style When planning your garden or planting design, start with an idea of the look you want to achieve. Whether it’s a formal, ordered design or a wild and rambling feel you’re after, choose a style and then follow it through with appropriate plants and materials. o A place in the sun When planning your garden, locate areas in sun and shade, and plan seating and planting accordingly. Here, the seating area is a sunny terrace, ideal for loungers, surrounded by summer flowers. The ferns in baskets need some shade during the day and plenty of moisture to succeed here, and most of the perennials will die down in winter, leaving bare beds. WHAT DO YOU WANT? Before deciding on a style, gather together some inspirational images. Take a camera to local open gardens and flower shows, snapping plants or designs that you like. Add pictures from magazines and books and you will soon have a scrapbook of plants and designs. Think, too, about what you want to do in your garden, whether it’s to relax and entertain, tend a vegetable plot, or grow a colorful flower border. MEETING YOUR NEEDS It is a good idea to focus on a particular style when designing your garden, but you will need to factor in your specific needs too. Write a list of practical requirements and incorporate these into your plans. For example, you may need a space to store trash cans or bikes, or perhaps room for a greenhouse or shed. Also consider access to utility buildings. When planning a dining area, consider how many people you will need to seat around a table, and calculate the size of a proposed patio to accommodate them. a Bicycle sculpture The problem of storing bikes in a small front garden is solved here with these cleverly designed racks that not only keep them secure, but transform them into a sculptural feature. a Beautiful bins Most households have recycling bins and trash cans that take up space and look unsightly. Here, a small shed with a roof planted up with mind-your-own-business (Soleirolia soleirolii) hides them and blends in with the garden. a Raised vegetables Growing fruit and vegetables in raised beds makes them easier to tend. The beds can also double as seats where space is limited. Planting styles The type of plants you choose, and the way in which you group them, will affect your designs. For instance, packing lots of different plants together lends an informal note, while using just a few species creates a modern, urban look. THEME YOUR PLANTING Use your favorite plants to evolve a garden style to suit you. If you love large, leafy plants, consider a tropical theme. Summer annuals lend themselves to traditional cottage gardens, while spiky succulents and drought-tolerant plants suit gravel gardens. 1 Spiky yuccas and hardy bananas create a lush tropical flavor. 2 Relaxed planting best suits the cottage-garden style. 3 The tepee and butterfly-friendly plants make this garden a haven for children. 4 Strong lines and few plants reflect a stark Modernist style. 5 A circular lawn and grassy borders update a traditional theme. 6 Sun-loving succulents sit happily in this desert-style bed. 18 GARDENING BASICS >> Planning your planting The plants you choose for your garden will depend on your taste and the style you want to achieve, but there are some basic rules about placing and grouping them that are relevant to all designs. If you have just inherited a garden, wait a couple of seasons to see if any plants appear that are worth keeping. ASSESS YOUR PLANTS In addition to making a list of the plants you want to include in your garden, also note those you have already. Think carefully before removing trees and large shrubs because these will take the longest to replace if you subsequently regret your decision. You may find that a hedge or shrubs are sheltering the garden from prevailing winds, or a tree could be masking an ugly view or neighbor’s house. Remember, too, that you can easily move clumps of perennials and bulbs, or split them into smaller groups. Shrubby shelter belt p The shrubs surrounding this patio shelter it from wind, and provide shade and privacy. When deciding whether to keep or remove large plants, try to visualize the garden without them, or cut them back first to see the effect. PLAN THE STRUCTURE FIRST a Stairway to heaven To create this beautiful landscape, plant the shrubs first, and fill in between them with perennials and grasses. Plants that require good drainage are squeezed between large boulders. a Planting plan When planning a tree in a border, take note of its spread, which will affect the light and water available to plants beneath it. The light leaf cover of this Acer allows dense planting below. First, mark out your bed or border with nontoxic spray paint, sand from a bottle, or a hose (see p.28). Then make a rough paper plan by scaling down the length and breadth of the bed to, say, 1 in (2.5 cm) on paper to 10 in (25 cm) on the ground, or 1 in (2.5 cm) to 20 in (50 cm). Then start plotting areas for the main structural plants, such as shrubs and trees. Check their heights and spreads to ensure they will have space to grow where you want them. Then draw circles with diameters that represent the spread of each plant on your paper plan. Alternatively, draw circles with sand from a bottle or nontoxic spray paint marking the positions of the plants on the actual bed. The next step is to plan the planting around these large specimens. Make sure perennials are a good distance from the central stems of trees and shrubs; spring bulbs that flower before the canopies open can be planted closer. GROUPING PLANTS Specimen trees and shrubs look great as individual statements, but bulbs and perennials have greater impact when planted en masse. Bulbs are best planted in large groups of 10 or more if you have space—weave them between laterflowering plants. Perennials work well in swathes of five or more. You can achieve a naturalistic design by interlocking sausage-shaped groups together, or for a modern look, plant in more regimental square or rectangular shapes. You can also add rhythm and continuity to your design by repeating the same plants throughout the garden, and try combining contrasting leaf shapes as well as flower colors for a rich, textured look. Creative contrasts p Although the predominant color in this border is green, the bold groups of perennials with contrasting leaf shapes and forms more than compensate for the limited color palette. CHOOSING A COLOR THEME Skillful garden designers are adept at matching colors to create harmonious planting displays, and by applying their methods, you can create similar effects. For a bright bold display, choose hot colors, such as canary yellow, fuchsia pink, red, and orange, or try cool blues, mauves, purples, and white to imbue your design with a mellow mood. Alternatively, mix the two schemes, placing blue next to yellow, or purple with red, to achieve a more balanced effect, but avoid too many different hues or your design will look disjointed and messy. Another option is to limit the palette to just one or two colors for an elegant mono- or duotone scheme. o a Lively or low key Red tulips and yellow wallflowers toned down with blue forget-me-nots create a bright, exciting design to herald spring (left). At the opposite end of the spectrum, this blue and white design of grasses, daisies, Bergenia, and Euphorbia has a tranquil effect (above). 20 GARDENING BASICS >> Get ready to plant Having assessed your site and soil conditions, you are now equipped with the information you need to buy the best plants for your garden. Browse through the rest of the book for ideas and plans, and make a list of your favorites. Make your choices When buying plants at a garden center or nursery, take the list of those you want with you, and try to stick to it. Remember, perennials look best planted in groups of three or more, while shrubs will need space to grow. CHOOSE CAREFULLY If some of the plants you have chosen are not available at your local garden center, it is tempting to select a similar plant, but take care to check the labels for heights, spreads, and growing conditions first (left). Different species of the same type of plant may grow to very different proportions from the one on your list. a Small selections Garden centers often stock a large range of plants, but only a small selection of each species. For a greater choice, use specialist nurseries; many offer mail-order or online service. BUYER BEWARE Before buying a plant, give it a quick check to make sure you take home a healthy one. First look at the leaves and stems for signs of pests and diseases, and reject any plant with wilted foliage. Large weeds growing in the pot are also a sign of neglect. Then, turn over the pot. If there is a mass of roots growing through the drainage holes, the plant has been in its pot too long—a condition known as “root bound.” Finally, look for plants with lots of leafy stems and fat flower buds. a Cause for concern Of the two climbers shown here, the one on the left is the best choice, with lots of leafy stems. o Root check Just a few roots showing through the drainage holes suggest that the plant has a well-established root system but has not been in its pot for too long. Storing plants It is best to plant your purchases within a day or two of bringing them home, but if this is not possible, store them carefully and they should continue to flourish until you have time to plant them, or the weather improves. a Cool conditions Store new plants in a cool, shady spot, and water daily until planting. TEMPORARY HOMES Do not plant if the soil is waterlogged or frozen; the roots of young plants will not survive in either of these conditions. Planting in a drought is also not advisable because you will bring cooler, damp soil from beneath the ground up to the surface and lose precious moisture. In either case, store your new plants in a sheltered area in the shade, and water daily until the conditions improve. a Bare-root storage If you are unable to plant bare-root plants immediately, simply bury their roots in the ground to keep them protected and moist. Prepare the ground Taking a few hours to prepare the soil before you plant always pays dividends, and often ends up saving time in the long run. Removing weeds and enriching the soil are essential jobs that are best done in the autumn or early spring. REMOVE ALL WEEDS First, dig out all of the weeds from the site by hand, or apply a weedkiller to pernicious types, such as bindweed or ground elder (see pp.402–403). If the weeds are really problematic, consider covering the soil with old carpet for a few seasons. This excludes light and moisture, as well as forming a physical barrier against weed seeds, and should kill off even the most troublesome types. DIG IN DEEP If you have taken on a neglected plot, or want to improve all the soil in your garden, try “single digging.” This involves digging a trench across your plot, one spade wide and deep. Move the excavated soil to the far end of the plot and add manure to the base of the trench. Dig a second trench next to the first, filling the first with the excavated soil. Then add manure to the second trench. Repeat across the plot. This is hard work, but well worth the effort. a Time saver When weeding try to completely remove the root systems to prevent the plants from regrowing. o Fertile ideas By digging in well-rotted manure or garden compost over the whole plot you will not have to worry about adding it to individual areas each time you plant. 22 GARDENING BASICS >> Essential tools You don’t need to spend a fortune when you start gardening, but a few basic tools are essential if you want to perform more than the smallest tasks. When you have more than three or four tools, consider investing in a small shed or box to keep your collection clean, dry, and free from rust. YOUR TOOL KIT A beginner’s kit should include a watering can, fork, spade, rake, trowel, and a hand fork. Add to these as your interest increases, and the list of jobs you carry out diversifies. If you find yourself doing a particular task frequently, such as digging the vegetable patch, invest in one tool of particularly good quality to make the job easier and more pleasurable. DIGGING, PLANTING AND HARVESTING 1 A sturdy garden fork is an essential tool, ideal for digging heavy soil and aerating lawns. 2 Buy a lightweight gardening basket for weeding and moving plants around the garden. 3 If you are tall, invest in a long-handled spade and fork, which will help prevent back injuries. 4 Trowels are ideal for planting seedlings and filling pots with soil. 5 Use a hand fork for small planting jobs and removing weeds. 6 A standard rake is used to level seedbeds and tamp down soil; buy a spring-tined fork for removing moss from lawns. PRUNING AND CUTTING The cutting tool you require depends on the thickness of the material you need to remove. There are lightweight clippers for cutting flowers and shaping fine topiary; heavier clippers for pruning stems of around pencil thickness; and loppers and pruning saws for larger branches. Choose the right pruning tool for the job because clippers may be damaged by material that is too thick, and a pruning saw will be too rough and unwieldy for small branches. Using the right pruner also makes the job much easier. a Pruning with clippers Invest in a good-quality pair of clippers if you have shrubs and trees to prune. Look for those with long-term guarantees. Spades and forks are both used to cultivate the soil but they have distinct roles. Use a fork to dig heavy soil, lift root crops, handle bulky material, such as garden compost, or to incorporate organic matter, such as manure, into the soil. Spades are best for digging holes and trenches, and shifting large quantities of soil; they cope better with light soils that fall through the prongs of a fork. However, if you find a spade too heavy, buy a border spade, which has a smaller head. a Coping with larger branches Small branches should be cut with a pruning saw, which has a curved blade to make sawing easier, and fits into awkward spaces. WATERING In summer, watering becomes the main task in the garden, and a basic watering can serves most needs. Fit a rose on the spout to sprinkle water on delicate seedlings or new plants after planting. An additional benefit is that watering cans fit easily under a rainwater butt tap. In larger gardens, or if you have lots of pots, you may find it necessary to use a hose. Look for one with adjustable settings so that you can gently sprinkle water on to containers or spray established plants. You can also buy long-handled hoses for watering hanging baskets. a Shower young plants Use a garden hose with a spray fitting to water newly planted areas with a gentle shower. a Watering cans for all jobs Use a full watering can to soak the roots of new plantings, and for large potted trees and shrubs. WEEDING a Good slicing action Keep your hoe sharpened and it will sever the roots of annual weeds more efficiently. a Dealing with deep roots A weed grubber can lever tap roots out of the soil, preventing regrowth. CLEANING AND CARE Clean your tools regularly to keep them in good condition. Oil clippers every few months to prevent them from rusting and check that the blades are tight so they cut efficiently. Brush soil from spades and forks regularly, and apply oil to the blades and prongs once or twice a year to deter rust. Before trimming or pruning a plant, help to prevent the buildup of plant diseases, such as box blight (see p.99), by cleaning your cutting tools, including saws and clippers, with household disinfectant. 1 Clean all pruning tools before each use to avoid spreading diseases from one plant to another. 2 At the end of the season, clean and oil spades to prevent rust. 3 Wipe pruning saws with a soft cloth and oil them. The most useful tool for weeding is a hoe, which you push along the surface of the soil to slice through the necks of weeds, where the stems meet the soil. Although hoeing kills annual weeds instantly, perennials chopped off in this way will survive and regrow. Weeds with tap roots, such as dandelions, are better dealt with using a weed grubber—a long pointed tool that penetrates deep into the soil. Use a spade or trowel to tackle perennials without tap roots, such as dock. 24 GARDENING BASICS >> Seasonal planner Spring Every season brings its own tasks in the garden, whether it’s making long-term changes, preparing for the months ahead, or maintaining it in the present. Do these jobs at the right time and in the correct order, and caring for your garden will be easier, quicker, and more satisfying. Your plants will benefit, too. Ǽ Cut back ornamental grasses (pp.52–53), prairie-style borders, (pp.70–71) and autumn-flowering perennials (pp.94–95). EARLY SPRING Ǽ Prepare beds and borders for planting; weed and dig over the soil; add organic matter where appropriate (p.249). Ǽ Prune late-flowering shrubs, early summer-flowering clematis and roses (pp.412–415). Ǽ Pollard willows and coppice dogwoods (pp.230–231). Ǽ Cut lavender hedges back (p.199). Ǽ Apply a granular fertilizer around shrubs, trees, and perennials (p.404). Ǽ Sow half-hardy annuals indoors (pp.108–109). Ǽ Pot up plug plants indoors (pp.120–121). Ǽ Lift and divide established clumps of perennials (p.416). Ǽ Plant hardy grasses (pp.52–53). Ǽ Plant snowdrops “in the green” (p.41). Ǽ Regularly deadhead spring-flowering bulbs and bedding plants. Ǽ Repot Christmas trees (pp.158–159). MID–LATE SPRING Ǽ Plant perennials (pp.28–31); summer-flowering bulbs (pp.124–125); and pond plants (pp.326–327). Ǽ Inside, plant Thai herbs (pp.302–303) Ǽ Plant indoor hanging basket (pp.370–371). Ǽ Sow hardy annuals directly outdoors; sow tender annuals indoors (pp.208–209). Ǽ Sow vegetables (pp.248–289), and plant potatoes (p.252). Ǽ Sow a wildflower meadow (pp.348–349). Ǽ Mulch the soil (p.495). 1 Sow annual flowers and vegetables inside in spring for earlier displays and crops. 2 Deadhead flowering plants throughout spring and summer, to encourage more blooms. Store dahlia tubers in a frost-free place for the winter. 3 Check all vegetable and fruit crops regularly, and harvest them when they’re at their best. 4 Rake up fallen leaves from the lawn in late autumn to keep the grass green. Use them to make leafmold. Ǽ Start weeding (p.23 and pp.402–403). Ǽ Prune early-flowering shrubs and early clematis after flowering (p.412; p.416). Ǽ Stake herbaceous perennials (p.67). Ǽ Start mowing the lawn (pp.422–423). Summer Autumn << Winter GARDENING BASICS EARLY SUMMER EARLY AUTUMN Ǽ Harden off tender seedlings sown indoors (pp.108–109). Ǽ Prepare beds for spring planting (p.249). Ǽ Plant bare-root trees and hedges (pp.192-193). Ǽ Plant spring bulbs, except tulips, in beds (pp.40–41) and lawns, (pp.210–11). Ǽ Take root cuttings from perennials (p.418). Ǽ Plant containers and baskets for winter color (pp.156–157). Ǽ Prune wisteria (pp.226–227), and most trees, including apples and pears (pp.410–411). Ǽ Plant out summer bedding and vegetable plants. Ǽ Plant up containers (pp.110–111) and hanging baskets (pp.130–131). Ǽ Take hardwood cuttings (p.419). Ǽ Protect young plant growth from pests, especially slugs (pp.424–429). Ǽ Sow sweet peas for an early display the following year (pp.228–229). Ǽ Put houseplants, including citrus (pp.304–305), outside for summer. Ǽ Plant wallflowers for spring color (p.114). Ǽ Feed flowering shrubs and roses with a rose fertilizer to promote flowering (pp.404–405). Ǽ Bring houseplants back indoors, checking for pests and diseases first. Ǽ Chit potatoes in late winter to plant in spring (pp.252–253). Ǽ Protect slightly tender exotics from frost by wrapping in fleece (p.181). Ǽ Plan your vegetable and flower beds. Ǽ Cover slightly tender perennials with a thick mulch of straw or bark chippings. Ǽ Group containers for stability in high winds and for insulation. Ǽ Move tender dahlia tubers and cannas inside (pp.86–87). Ǽ Wrap terracotta pots in bubble plastic or hessian for frost protection (p.409). Ǽ Turf or sow lawns (pp.206–208). Ǽ Build a raised bed (pp.254–255). Ǽ Apply an autumn lawn fertilizer to established lawns (pp.422–423). Ǽ Put up new bird boxes (p.363). Ǽ Prune evergreen shrubs (p.411), and hornbeam, cherry, and pear trees (p.413) after flowering. Ǽ Earth up potatoes and harvest after flowering (pp.252–253). Ǽ Sow beet (p.254), radishes (p.260), spinach (p.263), and lettuce (p.286) every two weeks. Ǽ Take softwood cuttings (p.420). Ǽ Prune late-flowering clematis (p.414). Ǽ Prune trees to create multistemmed specimens (p.182). Ǽ Harvest winter crops (pp.264–265). Ǽ Order flower and vegetable seeds. Ǽ Lay chamomile lawns (p.209). Ǽ Make a woodpile shelter for wildlife (pp.354–355). ANY TIME OF YEAR Ǽ Trim lavender hedges after flowering (p.199). Ǽ Prune hedges for the last time. Ǽ Make a compost bin; fill, turn Ǽ Prune wisteria to restrict growth (p.226). LATE AUTUMN LATE SUMMER Ǽ Sow spring cabbages (p.262). Ǽ Take semi-ripe wood cuttings (p.421). Ǽ Make an insect hotel in time for winter hibernation (pp.354–355). Ǽ Plant shrubs (pp.20–21); roses (pp.92–93); trees (pp.178–179); hedges (pp.192–197); climbers (pp.212–213); and fruit bushes (pp.292–293). Ǽ Plant tulips (pp.40–41). ALL SUMMER Ǽ Sow broad beans (see p.283). Ǽ Water containers and new plantings frequently, particularly in hot weather (pp.406–407). Ǽ Plant onions and garlic (pp.270–271). Ǽ Grow trees from seed (pp.188–189). Ǽ Mow the lawn as required. Ǽ Indoors, plant amaryllis bulbs (pp.366–367), and prepared hyacinths and narcissi (pp.378–379). Ǽ Deadhead flowering plants to extend blooming. Ǽ Trim late-flowering shrubs to reduce winter wind-rock (p.412). Ǽ Prune hedges and topiary as required. Ǽ Rake up fallen leaves and make leafmold (pp.360–361). Ǽ Weed beds and borders. Ǽ Tie climbers in to their supports. and empty when necessary (pp.358–359). Ǽ Make a wooden obelisk (pp.216–218). Ǽ Create a bog garden (pp.330–331). Ǽ Dig out a pond (pp.324–325). Ǽ Make a border and lawn edge (pp.32–33). Ǽ Make a rose arch (pp.222–223). Ǽ Check tree ties, and loosen if necessary (p.179). Ǽ Look out for pests and diseases, and take appropriate action (pp.424–433). Ǽ Cut out dead or diseased wood (pp.410). Ǽ Clean all cutting tools after use to prevent spreading plant diseases (p.23). 25 Beautiful Beds In this chapter you will find everything you need to know to make stunning beds and borders, from digging out a new site, to creating a group of grasses or a sparkling winter display. Learn how to plant bulbs, perennials, and shrubs, and then create a range of beautiful planting designs—either copy the ideas here or use them as inspiration for plans of your own. From old-fashioned cottage perennials to modern architectural foliage plants, there’s something for everyone. Create a new border Before you start digging a new border, think about the best place for it. Try taking a photograph of your garden from an upstairs window, or from a seating area, to see where you need color and interest. Also consider where the sun falls at different times of the day, and the types of plant you would like to use. Many summer-flowering plants need sun to bloom well, while large leafy types often prefer shade, and others are happy with both, so check what your chosen plants need before buying them. << WHEN TO START Early autumn AT ITS BEST Summer TIME TO COMPLETE 2 days YOU WILL NEED Tape measure Hose Half-moon turf cutter Spade Fork Rake Well-rotted organic matter, such as manure Horticultural grit (for clay soil) Granular fertilizer Watering can BEAUTIFUL BEDS MARK OUT THE BORDER With a tape measure, mark out the length and breadth of your border, making sure that it is not too narrow— a minimum width of 3 ft (1 m) is best. Use broad sweeping curves or a geometric design; avoid wiggly shapes, which look messy. Use a garden hose to mark out curved borders or pegs and string for straight edges. Carefully following the outlines, cut through the grass using a half-moon turf cutter or a spade. LIFT THE TURF Cut the turf into squares within your marked out area. Turf is heavy, so to make the squares easier to remove, make them a little smaller than the width of a spade blade. Use the spade to slice through the grass roots under each square before lifting the turf. Plants used in this border: Achillea Crocosmia masoniorum Verbena bonariensis PREPARE THE SITE TOP TIP: RECYCLING TURF Remove the turves and store them upside–down and out of the way (see Top Tip, right). Clear the site of large stones, debris, and weeds, removing the roots of perennial species, such as dandelion, dock, and bindweed. Break up large clods of soil with a garden fork to give an even texture. Then, check your soil to see if it is sandy or rich in clay (see pp.14–15). ENRICH THE SOIL Whatever your soil type, it will benefit from an application of well-rotted organic matter, such as manure or garden compost. Either use the “single-digging” method (see p.21), or dig in organic matter by spreading a 3 in (8 cm) layer over the border and mixing it into the top 6 in (15 cm) of soil. If you have heavy clay, also dig in some horticultural grit to improve drainage. Rake the surface smooth. continued... You can use turf removed from the border to patch up holes in lawns elsewhere in the garden, or pile it up and leave for about a year to rot down. Grass turves make excellent compost, which you can apply as a mulch to your border in early spring, before the perennials start to shoot. 29 30 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> SET OUT YOUR PLANTS WATER PLANTS WELL Now that the border is prepared, it is time to start planting. Make sure you buy plants that will suit your site and soil conditions, and the style you wish to create (see pp.14–17). This free-draining, sunny site suits a prairie-style design. Set out your plants in their pots and step back to see how the arrangement looks. Check that tall plants will not shade the smaller ones, and position the perennials in groups of three or more. Water them well before planting, either with a watering can or by plunging the pots in a bucket of water, waiting for the bubbles to disperse, and then removing the plants to drain. CHECK PLANTING DEPTHS REMOVE PLANTS FROM POTS For each perennial plant (see p.36 for shrub planting), dig a hole twice as wide as the pot, and a little deeper. Place the pot into the hole to check that the plant will be at the same depth after planting as it is in its pot. Lay a garden stake across the hole to help judge the right depth. Fork the bottom of the hole to break up any compacted soil. Then squeeze the sides of the pot and turn it upside down. With your fingers threaded through the stems and holding the soil, give the bottom of the pot a tap. The plant should slide out easily, but if not, tap the pot until it does. FINISHING TOUCHES When you have planted the whole border, use a hose to water the plants thoroughly. A good soaking will settle the soil around the plants, helping them establish. If any roots are exposed by the watering, cover them with soil. FIRM IN If the roots have circled around the root ball, gently tease them out (see Top Tip, opposite). Place the plant in the hole. Add some granular fertilizer to the excavated soil, and use this to fill in around the plant. Firm it in with your hands. << BEAUTIFUL BEDS CARING FOR YOUR PLANTS Apply a mulch (see p.405) to the whole border. Perennials take about a year to establish fully, and if planted in spring, they should have a healthy root system by the autumn. Until then, the plants will need to be watered regularly, even daily during periods of drought. After planting, feed them every year in spring with an all-purpose fertilizer and reapply a mulch. Planting depths The depth at which you plant can have a great impact on growth. Most plants, including shrubs (see pp.36–37) and perennials, should be planted at the same depth as they were in their pots. However, there are exceptions, including those mentioned below. Most trees also have specific planting needs (see pp.178–179). PLANTING PROUD TOP TIP: TEASING OUT ROOTS When planting, you may see the roots growing around in a tight circle, where they have been restricted by the pot. This is known as “root-bound,” and will limit the plant’s development. Remedy the problem by gently teasing out the roots so that they will grow away from the ball into the surrounding soil. Some plants perform best when planted slightly above the surrounding soil level. These include irises, whose rhizomes (bulblike structures—see right) will rot if buried, and other plants sensitive to wet soils, including Verbascum, Sisyrinchium, Sedum, and other hardy succulents. Plant these 1 in (2–3 cm) above the surface, leaving iris rhizomes exposed; for other plants, raise the soil in a mound around the rootball, so that water drains off. DEEP PLANTING Moisture-loving plants often prefer to be planted more deeply in the soil, so that their roots are not exposed to the drier conditions near the surface. Plant hostas with their roots 1 in (2 cm) below the surface, and bury Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum) at a depth of 4 in (10cm). 31 32 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Build a decorative edge Edging is both practical and aesthetic. At its most useful it marks out the boundary of a lawn, while also allowing you to simply run the mower over it. With a wide variety of materials to choose from, edging can be a decorative feature in its own right, chosen to complement the plants it contains. WHEN TO START Any time AT ITS BEST All year round TIME TO COMPLETE 5 hours YOU WILL NEED Bricks String and pegs Sharp spade Wet mortar mix Dry mortar mix Club hammer Spirit level Trowel Brush USE STRING AS A GUIDE REMOVE A STRIP OF TURF Use one brick to measure the correct distance from your raised bed (or border) and set up a line of string between two pegs from which to work. Cut through the turf along the line using the sharp edge of a spade. Dig out a strip of turf deep enough to accommodate the bricks plus a 1 in (2.5 cm) layer of mortar. First slice the turf up into manageable sections, then slide the spade underneath and lift them out onto a piece of tarpaulin. << BEAUTIFUL BEDS LEVEL THE GROUND Use the spade to roughly level out the ground. Mix wet mortar and add a 1 in (2.5 cm) layer to the bottom of the trench to bed in the bricks. Edging options Different edging materials will bring different looks to your garden, from delicate and ephemeral to solid and hard working. Copper piping, bent into a graceful curve (above), provides a pretty edge that echoes the colors of the planting. LAY BRICKS ON MORTAR Place the bricks on the mortar and set slightly below the level of the turf. Leave a small gap between each. Use a spirit level to check they are horizontal, and firm them using a club hammer. APPLY A DRY MIX Finally, use a dry mortar mix to fill the joints between the bricks, working the mixture in with a trowel. Clean off the excess with a brush. 1 In an informal area, allow your plants to spill over onto solid brick paving. 2 Geometric Victorian-style brick edging suits both formal and cottage-style gardens. 3 The attractive soft gray of slate chippings provides a perfect foil for edging plants. 4 Log edging is the ideal choice for seaside-themed gardens, especially when used with a gravel mulch, mixed with larger pebbles. 33 << BEAUTIFUL BEDS First flush of spring Awkward areas of bare ground beneath trees or shrubs are perfect for spring-flowering perennials and bulbs that bloom before the trees’ leaves are out and casting shade. Choose woodland dwellers, such as snowdrops and hellebores, for dense areas of shade, and sun-loving crocuses for the edge of the border. PREPARE THE GROUND WHEN TO PLANT Spring for snowdrops Autumn for bulbs and plants Woodland bulbs enjoy a moist, open-textured soil, rich in organic matter, so add plenty of well-rotted leafmold (see pp.360–361). AT THEIR BEST Early spring PLANT THE BULBS TIME TO COMPLETE Most spring bulbs are planted in autumn, but snowdrops do best when transplanted “in the green”—after flowering but while their leaves are intact. For a natural effect, plant bulbs in drifts. 2 hours YOU WILL NEED Slim trowel or bulb planter Spade Well-rotted leafmold 1. Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis 2. Winter aconite, Eranthis hyemalis 3. Crocus tommasinianus 4. Helleborus x hybridus (purple) 5. Helleborus x hybridus (pink) AFTER FLOWERING In rougher corners of the garden, dying bulb leaves can just be left, but if you feel the need to tidy, make sure the leaves have died down completely before you remove them. Give all plants an annual mulch of leafmold. 5 1 2 4 3 35 36 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Plant a shady border A border set in deep shade can be a real bonus in the garden if you choose your plants carefully, because some of the most beautiful shrubs will only grow well in low light conditions. These areas may lack the drama of a sunny spot, but they have a cool and understated sophistication of their own. WHEN TO START Autumn AT ITS BEST Spring TIME TO COMPLETE 2 hours for preparation 3 hours for planting YOU WILL NEED Spade Organic matter, such as well-rotted leafmold Shrubs such as: Camellia and flowering currant, Ribes sanguineum. Underplanting, for example, Bergenia, Dicentra spectabilis, ferns, and hellebores. BEFORE YOU PLANT Many plants that grow well in shady conditions grow naturally in woodlands, and need a cool, moist soil, which has been enriched with leafmold. In autumn, clear the planting area of all weeds, then mix plenty of leafmold into the soil (to make leafmold, see pp.360–361). DIG PLANTING HOLES Buy your shrubs in autumn or spring, and plan carefully where you are going to plant them, taking into account their final size. The shrubs go toward the back of the border, with the underplanting below them and in front. The planting holes should be twice as wide and slightly deeper than the pots. TOP TIP: FEEDING SHRUBS Shrubs need regular feeding to thrive. Early spring is the best time to sprinkle a fertilizer, such as blood, fish, and bone meal, around the base of the plants. Repeat each year to keep growth vigorous and healthy. CHECK PLANTING DEPTHS Put some leafmold in the bottom of each hole and then place a plant on top of it. Use a stake across the hole to check that the plant will be at the same depth when planted as it was in its pot. WATER IN WELL Fill in around the plant with soil and leafmold, and water in well. Water regularly until the plant is established. Mulch with organic matter, like leafmold, leaving the area around the stems clear. << Planting options BEAUTIFUL BEDS Shade-tolerant shrubs that are grown for their flowers, such as camellias, need a little light. The selection below is best planted where some sun can filter through, such as near deciduous trees or a trellis. 1 Daphne laureola subsp. philippi; h18 in (45 cm) s24 in (60 cm) 2 Rosa rugosa ‘Rubra’; hsto 6 ft (2 m) 3 Paeonia delavayi var. lutea; h6 ft (2 m) s4 ft (1.2 m) 4 Hydrangea aspera Villosa Group; hsto 10 ft (3 m) o Kept in the dark This beautiful white form of flowering currant, Ribes sanguineum, and pink camellia are underplanted with a golden-leaved bleeding heart, Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’, and other shade-lovers. 37 SELECTIONS >> 38 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Spring bulbs Spring bulbs brighten the garden from the depths of winter to the beginning of summer. The first out is always the snowdrop, often pushing its pale little flowers through a layer of snow. At the end of the season, alliums come into their own, heralding the start of summer with their globelike purple flowerheads, floating above early perennials. Plant your bulbs in autumn and your efforts will be rewarded come the spring. A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil E moist soil F wet soil HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met 1 Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’; h3 ft (1 m) s4 in (10 cm) Ad H12–1 Muscari armeniacum; h8 in (20 cm) s2 in (5 cm) AdE H8–1 (35 cm) s4 in (10 cm) Ad H8–4 3 Tulipa ‘Prinses Irene’; h14 in 4 Scilla siberica; h8 in (20 cm) s2 in (5 cm) ABdE H8–5 5 Crocus corsicus; h4 in (10 cm) s2 in (5 cm) AD H9–6 (15 cm) s2in (5 cm) AbdE H10–6 H11–4 2 Grape hyacinth, 6 Narcissus ‘Canaliculatus’; h6 in 7 Narcissus ‘Tête-à-Tête’; h6 in (15 cm) s2 in (5 cm) ABdE 8 Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Blue Jacket’; h8 in (20 cm) s3 in (8 cm) ABD H9–1 Fritillaria raddeana; h24 in (60 cm) s4 in (10 cm) AD H9–6 s4 in (10 cm) Ad H8–4 9 Fritillary, 0 Tulipa sprengeri; h20 in (50 cm) q Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis; hs4 in (10 cm) BE H8–1 BEAUTIFUL BEDS 39 SELECTIONS >> << Plant a bed of spring bulbs Harbingers of spring, bulbs transform sleeping gardens into oceans of color as the seasons turn. Starting with the first brave snowdrops that peek through the soil in winter, and closing with a spectacular display of tulips and alliums at the end of spring, bulbs provide a long period of interest. Plant them in autumn—leave tulips until late in the season—and they will flower the following year. << How deep? WHEN TO START Mid autumn AT ITS BEST Early to late spring For bulbs to succeed, you need to plant them at the right depth, usually two to four times the height of the bulb. Plant too shallowly, and they may not flower; too deep, and they might not grow at all. TIME TO COMPLETE 30 minutes for planting YOU WILL NEED Fork Spade Horticultural grit Bulb planter or trowel Chicken wire Selection of spring bulbs DIG A HOLE Dig to a depth of about 2–4 times the height of your bulbs (see right). Place the bulbs in the hole with the pointed growing tip facing upward. Discard any that are moldy or soft. TOP TIP: PLANTING SNOWDROPS Snowdrops have tiny bulbs that dehydrate quickly, and often fail to flower if planted in autumn. Instead, buy pot-grown bulbs in leaf in the spring and plant them so that the pale bases of the stems are just below the soil surface. If you already have large clumps of snowdrops, lift and divide them in spring, after flowering (see pp.416–417 for tips on dividing plants). BEAUTIFUL BEDS PREPARE TO PLANT All bulbs need well-drained soil, so if you have heavy clay, either dig in plenty of grit before you start, or grow them in pots (see pp.106–107). You can either plant bulbs individually, using a bulb planter or trowel, or dig a wide hole and plant them en masse, which is an easier method, and more naturalistic. COVER BULBS Fill in the hole with soil, taking care not to damage the growing tips, and firm it down with your fingers. Cover with chicken wire to prevent animals from digging up the bulbs; remove it when the first shoots appear. 1 Tulips prefer to be planted deeply, four times their own depth; a 2 in (5 cm) bulb is planted 8 in (20 cm) deep. 2 Daffodils are planted three times their own depth; a 2 in (5 cm) bulb is planted 6 in (15 cm) deep. 3 Plant grape hyacinths (Muscari) at three times their depth; a ¾ in (2 cm) bulb is planted at a depth of 2½ in (6 cm). 4 Alliums are also planted at three times their depth; a 1¼ in (3 cm) bulb should be planted 3½ in (9 cm) deep. 41 << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Seasonal pastels Many of the bulbs and flowers of early summer come in pastel shades that can be easily combined to create a harmonious design. Striking alliums dotted through the border provide a touch of drama. PREPARE THE SOIL WHEN TO PLANT Autumn and early spring Many bulbs and most of these plants prefer a well-drained soil, and suffer if left to sit in damp conditions over winter. If your soil is heavy, dig in horticultural grit to improve drainage. AT THEIR BEST Early summer TIME TO COMPLETE PLANT UP 5 hours Plant the alliums in autumn and mark their positions with labels. In spring, plant the perennial wallflowers and the aquilegias around the alliums in drifts. Plant the tall foxgloves at the back. YOU WILL NEED Horticultural grit Spade Bulb planter or slim trowel 1. Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea f. albiflora 2. Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ 3. Aquilegia vulgaris ‘Nora Barlow’ 4. Perennial wallflower, Erysimum ‘Bowles's Mauve’ AFTERCARE Alliums have beautiful seedheads, so leave for as long as they look good. Aquilegias can be cut back after flowering to promote fresh growth. Alliums and aquilegias come up each year, foxgloves self-seed, but the wallflowers may need replacing after a few years. 1 2 4 3 43 44 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Grow acid-lovers If you have tested your soil (see p.14) and found that it is acidic, some of the most beautiful flowering and foliage shrubs, including Japanese maples, camellias, and rhododendrons, will thrive in your garden. WHEN TO PLANT Autumn or early spring AT THEIR BEST Spring TIME TO COMPLETE 2 hours YOU WILL NEED Well-rotted organic matter, such as manure Spade All-purpose fertilizer for acid-loving plants Selection of acid-loving shrubs: Japanese maple, Acer palmatum Flowering dogwood, Cornus florida Korean rhododendron, Rhododendron mucronulatum SPACING THE PLANTS You can use any Acer palmatum or rhododendron for this design but they may have different growth habits from these, so check labels for sizes and allow space between plants for a few years’ growth. ADD ORGANIC MATTER Choose a partly shaded site, sheltered from cold, drying winds. Before planting, dig a bucketful of well-rotted organic matter into each square yard of soil. Water the plants well, and then plant according to the instructions for shrubs on page 36. CARING FOR ACID-LOVERS Each spring, apply an all-purpose fertilizer for acid-loving shrubs, and mulch annually (see p.405) to aid soil moisture retention. In spring, after flowering, trim back lightly any wayward growth. Planting in containers If you have an alkaline soil but would like to grow acid-loving plants, try planting them in containers filled with ericaceous soil, which is specially designed for them. CREATING THE RIGHT CONDITIONS Choose a large container or make a raised bed (see pp.254–255) for acid-loving shrubs, such as camellias, azaleas, and rhododendrons. Fill your planters with ericaceous soil and, each spring, replace the top layer of soil from the bed or pot with fresh soil mixed with a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. a Acid colors Azaleas come in a range of fiery shades that set off simple white containers beautifully. If leaves start to yellow, which is a sign of iron deficiency, give them a dose of fertilizer for acid-lovers. << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Planting options Combine the spring shrubs in this design, and those below, with summer-flowering blue hydrangeas, Kalmia latifolia, and fragrant summersweet, Clethra, to extend the season. Alternatively, create a conifer and heather garden, which will thrive in acid conditions. 1 Enkianthus deflexus; E10 ft (3 m) 2 Grevillea rosmarinifolia; H6 ft (1.8 m) s8 ft (2.5 m) 3 Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’; E30 ft (10 m) 4 Winter heath, Erica carnea; H6 in (15 cm) s18 in (45 cm) o Candy color mix This sumptuous mix of blowsy pink rhododendron flowers (Rhododendron mucronulatum), dark purple maple leaves (Acer palmatum var. dissectum ‘Garnet’) and elegant red dogwood stems makes a stunning spring display. 45 << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Fiery border Hot-hued plants in shades of orange, red, and yellow are guaranteed to brighten up your garden. Plant them in a sunny spot, and position them against a dark background for maximum impact. PREPARE THE SITE WHEN TO START Late autumn to early spring Between late autumn and early spring, remove all weeds from the site and dig in well-rotted organic matter (see also p.29). Buy plants in spring. AT ITS BEST Mid- to late summer TIME TO COMPLETE SET OUT THE PLANTING PATTERN 1 hour preparation; 3 hours to plant First plant the clematis against the screen (see p.219). Set out the other plants in pots and arrange them in groups of three or more, with the dahlias, Kniphofia and Crocosmia at the back. YOU WILL NEED Organic matter All-purpose fertilizer Stakes and twine 1. Clematis x diversifolia PLANT AND STAKE 2. Kniphofia ‘Bees’ Sunset’ Plant as for perennials (see pp.30–31) and include some all-purpose fertilizer in the planting holes. Insert a stake next to the dahlias, and tie in the stems as they grow. Water well after planting and during dry spells for the first year. Overwinter dahlia tubers in a frost-free place (see p.86). 3. Dahlia ‘David Howard’ 4. Feather grass, Stipa tenuissima 5. Achillea Summer Pastels Group 6. Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’ 7. Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ 8. Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ 8 1 2 3 7 6 5 4 47 SELECTIONS >> 48 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Delicious scents Even the most beautifully designed and colorful garden is lacking an essential ingredient if it contains no fragrant plants; some emit strong scents that fill the garden, others are best appreciated at close quarters. Use perfumed plants next to seating areas or alongside walkways to experience them in full. Most flower from spring to summer, but include mahonia or Christmas box for delicious scents in the depths of winter. A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil E moist soil F wet soil HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met 1 Mock orange, Philadelphus ‘Burfordensis’; h10 ft (3 m) s6 ft (2 m) ABd H8–5 burkwoodii ‘Somerset’; hs5 ft (1.5 m) ABdE H7–1 h10 in (25 cm) s8 in (20 cm)Ad H7–1 s18 in (45 cm) AdE H12–1 2 Daphne x 3 Wallflower, Erysimum cheiri ‘Fire King’; 4 Chocolate plant, Cosmos atrosanguineus; h30 in (75 cm) 5 Mahonia x media cultivar; h15 ft (5 m) s12 ft (4 m) ABDe H9–8 6 Rosa Escapade; h30 in (75 cm) s24 in (60 cm)AE H9–5 h18 in (45 cm) s24 in (60 cm) Ad H8–5 7 Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead’; 8 Pink, Dianthus ‘Bovey Belle’; hs12 in (30 cm)AD 9 Rhododendron luteum; hs12 ft (4 m) Be H9–7 0 Christmas box, Sarcococca confusa; h6 ft (2 m) s3 ft (1 m) BCE H9–6 q Viburnum carlesii ‘Aurora’; hs6 ft (2 m) ABdE H8–5 BEAUTIFUL BEDS 49 SELECTIONS >> << << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Fragrant combination Scent is one of the most evocative senses, and this profusion of perfumed plants is sure to tempt you closer to enjoy the fragrant flowers of old-fashioned roses, lilies, lavender, and pinks. PLANT THE ROSES WHEN TO PLANT Early spring Most of the plants here prefer free-draining soil, so dig plenty of grit into clay soils to improve drainage. The roses require more moisture: plant them as recommended on page 93. AT ITS BEST Summer TIME TO COMPLETE 3 hours COMPLETE THE PLANTING YOU WILL NEED Plant a line of lavender and lilies in front of the roses, and position the thyme and pinks along the front edge. Mulching with gravel will keep plant stems dry, and keep them from rotting off. Well-rotted organic matter, such as manure Grit Spade All-purpose granular fertilizer AFTERCARE 1. Bronze-leaved fennel Keep the bed well watered for the first year, and during any prolonged dry spells thereafter. To ensure a good display, feed the plants each spring with a granular fertilizer. Regularly remove any faded rose and Dianthus flowers as they appear to extend their performance. 2. Easter lily, Lilium longiflorum 3. Pink, Dianthus ‘Super Trooper’ 4. Silver-leaved thyme 5. French lavender, Lavandula stoechas 6. Rosa ‘Gertrude Jekyll’ 1 2 6 3 5 4 51 52 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Grassy border Decorative grasses produce fabulous textural effects and look stunning when grouped together. Most are easy to maintain, and have a long season of interest, with plumes of flowers in summer followed by seedheads and stems that offer color and structure in winter. PREPARE A BORDER WHEN TO PLANT Autumn or early spring Choose an open, sunny site for your border. Grasses generally tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, but it is always wise to dig in well-rotted organic matter before planting your border. If you have heavy clay, incorporate some horticultural grit to increase drainage. AT ITS BEST Summer to early autumn TIME TO COMPLETE 2½ hours YOU WILL NEED Well-rotted organic matter Spade All-purpose fertilizer SET OUT THE PLANTS 1. Pampas grass, Cortaderia selloana ‘Aureolineata’ 2. Cortaderia selloana ‘Pumila’ 3. Feather grass, Stipa calamagrostis 4. Stipa splendens 5. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Malepartus’ 5 The Miscanthus and pampas (Cortaderia) are the tallest grasses, so set them toward the back of the border, leaving space at the front for the feather grasses (Stipa). Allow about 4 ft (1.2 m) between the larger grasses for them to spread, and 30 in (75 cm ) between the smaller ones. PLANTING AND AFTERCARE 1 2 Plant grasses at the same depth as they were in their original containers and mulch with gravel to help suppress weeds. Keep the plants well watered for the first year until they are established. Leave the dried stems on the plants to overwinter, and in early spring, cut them down almost to ground level to allow new growth to emerge. 4 3 Rustle and sway p This bold group of grasses creates a dynamic effect as their plumes and foliage dance in the breeze. The tall grasses grow to about 6 ft (1.8 m), while the shorter feather grasses (Stipa) at the front reach 3 ft (1 m) in height. << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Planting options There are many grasses to choose from and most require free-draining soil and a sunny site. For a smaller area, select the more compact cultivars—you will find a large selection available by mail order from specialist nurseries. 1 Helictotrichon sempervirens; Hs3 ft (1 m) 2 Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’; H5 ft (1.5 m) s3 ft (1 m) 3 Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’; H8 ft (2.5 m) s4 ft (1.2 m) 4 Pennisetum alopecuroides; H30 in (75 cm ) s3 ft (1 m) 53 54 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Make a family garden Creating a plot that children and parents will both enjoy is not easy. The key is to provide kids with space to play without filling it with garish toys, while setting aside a relaxing area for grown-ups to relax. COMBINING PLAY WITH PLANTING Research shows that children and adults benefit mentally and physically from being in a natural environment. So although it is tempting to buy a plastic swingset and set it in the center of the lawn, it may not be very beneficial for your children in the long run. Instead, surround play areas with plants that children will enjoy, such as cheerful sunflowers (see pp.64–65) and those that attract butterflies (see pp.352–353). Children’s interests change rapidly, and what they like one year will be passed over the next. Prevent boredom setting in by providing toys that are not permanent fixtures, and will seem new and exciting time after time. Tents are a great choice, appealing to all ages, and offering limitless opportunities for imaginative play. All you need is an area of lawn to pitch one on. Growing fruit and vegetables allows children to take a real interest in gardening; sowing seeds and watching their plants grow gives young ones a real sense of achievement. Plastic sandboxes often languish unloved once the novelty has worn off, but one made from a raised bed can be converted into a small vegetable plot, the perfect size for little hands to tend their first crops. a Raise your play This sandbox is made from a timber raised bed, which you can buy as a kit, or make yourself (see pp.254–255). When children outgrow the sand, fill the bed with colorful sunflowers, edible flowers, such as nasturtiums, and quick-growing vegetables. a Green fingers Children enjoy the responsibility of looking after their own projects, so why not encourage them to grow their own food and learn how plants develop? TOP TIP: SIMPLE SWINGS You can make a simple swing from a thick rope attached securely to a sturdy tree branch. Tie an old tyre to it to make a traditional swing, checking that it will hold your child by swinging on it yourself first. Alternatively, knot the rope at intervals for children to climb up. Adult supervision is always advisable when small children are using any type of play equipment. a Swing seat Play equipment need not be expensive or store-bought. A rope and old tyre are all you need to keep children happy. Just make sure your child is strong enough to hold onto the rope when swinging. Water and wildlife If your children can swim and are old enough to understand the dangers of water, ponds offers more play opportunities than almost any other garden feature. They are easy to build (see pp.324–327) and will soon attract a wealth of wildlife to your garden. BE SAFE Small children can drown in just a few inches of water, so wait until yours are old enough to appreciate the dangers before installing a water feature. If you have older children with younger siblings, fit a custom-made metal grill over the water surface and sure it will take the weight of a child, should he or she fall. sloped so they can get out if they fall in, and plant around the sides to provide them with cover and habitats. Frogs and toads will be drawn to any pond, large or small, and in spring will fill the water with spawn. Other creatures to look out for include water beetles, pond skaters, water snails, newts, damselflies and dragonflies. WILDLIFE HAVEN a Aquatic homes Wrap planting around your pond to create shelter for wildlife, such as birds, frogs and toads. As soon as your pond is installed, birds and small animals will visit to drink and bathe, and many other creatures will become permanent residents. Make sure the sides are o Beauty and the beast Look out for dragonfly nymphs as they climb from the water and shed their skins, before emerging as adults. Plots for pets o Dog territory Boisterous dogs can devastate gardens by trampling plants, so grow your favorites in raised beds to help reduce the risk. Also, weigh down containers so they won't be knocked over accidentally. Sharing your garden with pets can be a fun and fulfilling experience, and by catering for their needs, as well as your own, you can all live happily together in the same plot. PET SPACES Small pets, such as guinea pigs and rabbits, are happiest in a secure run on a lawn. If you move the run every few days, you may even eliminate the need to mow the grass altogether. Dogs that have free reign of the garden can present problems if they are not trained. Set aside a quiet area, such as behind a shed, for your dog to use as a toilet. After a few weeks, and treats for good behavior, he or she will only go there. Raised beds and borders edged with low hedging will also help deter your dog from rampaging through your favorite flowers. Cats are not as easily trained as dogs, especially in their toilet habits. Encourage them to use a litter box, and deter them from using the borders by inserting short pieces of cane in the areas where they are likely to dig. Cats like bare soil, so these are the areas to concentrate on. Kitty treat p Cats adore the scent of catmint (Nepeta) and love to roll around in it. Give your pet a treat and set aside a bed for this pretty plant. 56 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Make a shady rockery Transform a dull, shady corner into a rockery for spring interest. Many shade-loving plants, such as ferns, ivies, and violas, love the cool, moist but well-drained conditions and will thrive here. WHEN TO START Autumn AT ITS BEST Spring TIME TO COMPLETE 6 hours: preparation and planting YOU WILL NEED Topsoil (if not working on a sloping site) Attractive large stones Bugle, Ajuga reptans Creeping phlox, Phlox stolonifera Dog’s-tooth violet, Erythronium Hardy ferns Hostas Ivies, Hedera Violas SELECT AND PLACE STONES Set rocks into the soil, with larger ones at the base of the slope and smaller ones at the top. Bury one third of each stone, and angle them so that rain will run off into the soil. PREPARE THE SOIL If you have a flat site, create a slope with weed-free topsoil in autumn, so it has time to settle. If you have a slope already, weed it thoroughly. Dig in some grit if the drainage is poor. CHECK PLANTING POSITIONS In spring, buy your plants. Arrange them around the rock garden while they are still in their pots, to see where they will look best, before deciding on their final planting positions. PLANT AND MULCH Plant in the pockets between the stones, then water well. Mulch with composted bark, or similar, to help keep moisture sealed in and to suppress weeds. Water regularly for the first year. Versatile ferns Ferns are a wonderful choice for shady areas. They will grow in the tiniest of dank crevices, as long as they have enough moisture and a glimmer of light. Sunken pits echo the way ferns sometimes lodge themselves in subterranean drains and peer up from the gloom. You can also try growing them under a bench, where little else will thrive. For dry sites under trees or close to walls, try the male fern, Dryopteris filix-mas, or the evergreen hart’s tongue fern, Asplenium scolopendrium. The royal fern, Osmunda regalis, is perfect for damp areas and looks very effective planted near water. a Cool perspective Ferns don’t mind shade, so grow them where little else will thrive, such as under garden furniture. o Star performers Ferns are ideal for these mesh-covered troughs, which were designed as a green car-parking bay. SELECTIONS >> 58 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Dry shade solutions Shady, dry areas, such as those beneath trees and large shrubs, are some of the trickiest for plants to cope with. Choose sun-lovers for these sites and you will have scrawny, dried-out plants stretching for light. However, there are a few stalwarts that will not only cope, but thrive in such a spot. To give them a head start, dig large planting holes and mix plenty of wellrotted manure with the soil, then apply lots of water while they settle in. A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil E moist soil F wet soil HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met 1 Kerria japonica ‘Golden Guinea’; h6 ft (2 m) s8 ft (2.4 m) ABd H9–1 maculatum ‘White Nancy’; h6 in (15 cm) s3 ft (1 m) BCdE H8–1 Palmer’; h14 in (35 cm) s18 in (45 cm) BCE H8–5 (30 cm) BCde H9–5 BCDe H7–1 4 Saxifraga stolonifera ‘Tricolor’; hs12 in 5 Brunnera macrophylla ‘Dawson’s White’; h18 in (45 cm) s24 in (60 cm) 6 Viburnum davidii; hs5 ft (1.5 m) ABde H9–3 Group; h3 in (8 cm) s4 in (10 cm) BCd H9–5 (60 cm) s12 in (30 cm)ABDe H9–1 s36 in (90 cm) Be H9–2 H8–1 2 Deadnettle, Lamium 3 Lungwort, Pulmonaria ‘Lewis 7 Cyclamen coum Pewter 8 Jacob’s ladder, Polemonium caeruleum; h24 in 9 Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’; h24 in (60 cm) 0 Aquilegia vulgaris ‘Nivea’; h36 in (90 cm) s18 in (45 cm)ABde q Fringe cups, Tellima grandiflora; h32 in (80 cm) s12 in (30 cm) ABde H8–1 BEAUTIFUL BEDS 59 SELECTIONS >> << << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Tropical retreat You don’t need to live in the tropics to create a lush, leafy, junglelike corner in which to hide away from the stresses of the world. Choose sculptural plants with dramatic leaves in shades of green. CHOOSE THE SITE WHEN TO START Spring All these plants prefer a sunny site, but will tolerate light shade. They also need to be sheltered from strong winds, which could damage their foliage. AT ITS BEST Summer TIME TO COMPLETE PREPARE TO PLANT 4 hours YOU WILL NEED Spade Well-rotted organic matter Mulch 1. Loquat, Eriobotrya japonica 2. Phormium cookianum subsp. hookeri ‘Tricolor’ 3. Polystichum setiferum Clear the border of weeds and dig in organic matter over the site. Arrange the plants in a tiered jungle effect, then plant and water well (see pp.30–31 for planting method). Mulch with bark to give the feel of a forest floor. AFTERCARE All of these plants are quite hardy, except Musa basjoo. In winter, surround it with chicken wire attached to stakes, and fill with hay (see also p.408). In mild areas, wrap it with garden fleece. 4. Arum lily, Zantedeschia aethiopica 5. Musa basjoo 5 1 4 3 2 61 62 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Plant bare-root bamboo Bare-root bamboo plants are significantly cheaper than those grown in pots, and are a good option if you need several to create a screen, as shown here. You may also get a bare-root plant if a friend has sections to spare. Plant them as soon as you get them home to prevent the roots drying out. << KEEP ROOTS MOIST WHEN TO PLANT Autumn Because the roots are not in soil and will dry out and die very rapidly, you must keep them moist before planting. Place a plastic bag filled with moss around the roots, and keep the moss damp until the last minute, when you are ready to plant. AT THEIR BEST Summer TIME TO COMPLETE 1–2 hours YOU WILL NEED Bare-root bamboo Plastic bag Spade Compost Watering can Root barrier Garden moss ADD ORGANIC MATTER o Elegant screen Bamboo makes a perfect screen to hide ugly objects in the garden or to ensure privacy. Evergreen, clothed in foliage all the way up the stem, and with an upright habit, it takes up less space, if controlled, than the average hedge. Dig a hole larger than the rootball and break up the base using a fork. In the bottom, add a layer of well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost or manure, and mix it in lightly. Add more organic matter to the excavated soil from the hole and mix this together also. PLANT AND FIRM IN BAMBOO PLACE BAMBOO INTO HOLE Unwrap the bamboo, gently tease out the roots, and carefully lower it into the planting hole. Keeping the plant upright, add the organic matter and soil mix, firming down as you go to make sure there are no air pockets between the roots. AFTERCARE Keep the immediate area weed-free while the plant is establishing. Water regularly during dry spells to ensure that the plant roots do not dry out. Thin out and tidy established clumps every two years in early spring, before they begin shooting. Cut any dead or weak stems down to ground level. BEAUTIFUL BEDS Fill in the hole around the stems, making sure the plant is at the same level as originally planted. To do this, look for an earthy tidemark on the stems, showing where the soil had previously come up. Firm well and water. TOP TIP: CONTROLLING BAMBOOS Some bamboos are “runners” and once established will send out roots all over the garden. These plants need to be contained with a root barrier made from a nonperishable material, such as rigid plastic or slate. Dig a narrow trench around the clump and insert your barrier. Cut and remove all peripheral roots, then fill in with soil. 63 64 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Sow an annual border Annual bedding plants are great in pots and window boxes, but they can also be planted straight into the summer border, where they offer a quick and colorful way to fill bare patches in new gardens. Sunflowers From towering giants to knee-high midgets, sunflowers are real crowdpleasers, and always a hit with children. WHEN TO SOW Spring AT THEIR BEST Mid- to late summer TIME TO COMPLETE 20 mins to sow; 20 mins to plant YOU WILL NEED Sunflower seeds 3½ in (7 cm) pots Seed soil Garden stakes String PLANT SEEDS In spring, sow sunflower seeds indoors in a light, warm spot. Sow a single seed in each pot since they make large seedlings. Coir pots (above) can be planted whole, straight into the soil. SUPPORT YOUNG PLANTS WATER FREQUENTLY Water seedlings regularly, and keep them indoors or in a warm greenhouse until mid-spring. Then put them outside during the day, bringing them indoors at night, to harden off. Prepare a suitable area of soil outside, and once the risk of frost has passed, plant the sunflowers out into the garden. Their young stems bend easily, so tie them to short stakes. For extra big sunflowers, choose a large cultivar. Feed and water your plants all summer. Planting options Flowering annuals come in a wealth of shapes and sizes, and even scents; many are tender, so plant outside after the frosts. Cosmos has delicate, ferny foliage, with flowers that float on tall, delicate stems. In contrast, Iberis scrambles across the soil and offers useful groundcover. Senecio’s silvery foliage provides a wonderful foil for flowers, and low-growing Gazania is a dazzler, adding vivid color to a sunny spot. 1 Cosmos bipinnatus; H3 ft (1 m) s18 in (45 cm) 2 Senecio cineraria; Hs24 in (60 cm) 3 Gazania; H8 in (20 cm) s10 in (25 cm) 4 Candytuft, Iberis umbellata; H12 in (30 cm) s9 in (23 cm) o Pot of gold Not all sunflowers are giants. The shorter varieties, such as ‘Teddy Bear’ and ‘Dwarf Yellow Spray’, are planted alongside bedding geraniums (Pelargonium), Salvia farinacea ‘Strata’, nasturtiums, and black-eyed Susan (Thunbergia alata), in this colorful bed. << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Cottage dream The gentle hues and varying textures of cottage garden perennials can be used to create beautiful combinations in an informal planting design. This is the classic sun-loving border of many gardeners’ imaginations, with spires of lofty delphiniums piercing through lower mounds of colorful flowers. PREPARE THE SOIL WHEN TO START Autumn AT THEIR BEST Midsummer TIME TO COMPLETE 2 hours preparation; 3 hours to plant YOU WILL NEED Spade Well-rotted organic matter Grit In autumn, clear the border of all weeds. Dig in organic matter, such as garden compost or well-rotted manure. Ideally you should dig down one spade depth (see p.21), incorporating organic matter into the top 6 in (15 cm) of soil. On heavy soils, spread a layer of grit over the whole area, and dig it in to improve drainage. SET OUT THE PLANTING PLAN 1. Delphinium Black Knight Group 2. Anchusa azurea 3. Alstroemeria ligtu hybrids 4. Achillea filipendulina ‘Gold Plate’ 5. Salvia sclarea var. turkestanica 6. Verbascum olympicum TOP TIP: STAKING Many perennials, such as delphiniums and Achillea, become top-heavy and require support. If you provide supports early in the season, plants will grow through and disguise them, and they will still look natural and attractive. Plants staked at a later date, once they have already flopped, tend to always look trussed up. Buy plants in spring and set them out across the border, taking time to arrange them and to visualize how they will grow in relation to each other. The classic arrangement is taller plants at the back and shorter plants at the front, but consider using tall, airy types, such as Achillea or Verbena bonariensis, farther forward. AFTERCARE 6 1 5 2 4 3 Some of the plants will need staking as they grow (see right), and in their first year they will require regular watering to help them establish. Although these herbaceous perennials die back in winter, where possible, leave their stems to stand until spring. Then cut everything back to the ground to neaten the border and allow space for new growth. This is also a good time to apply a general-purpose granular fertilizer and a mulch of well-rotted organic matter. a Stop the flop Use short stakes to support tall flowers, such as delphiniums (top left). Plants with moundlike growth will grow through and be supported by twiggy sticks put in place in spring (top right). Linked metal stakes serve a similar purpose (above). 67 SELECTIONS >> 68 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Cottage garden plants There are many different plants that suit a cottage garden, but as a rule, the simpler ones that have not been highly bred look most at home in such a design. Plants such as anemones, Cirsium, and Anthemis create easy-going, loose arrangements, while the tall flower spires of lupins and hollyhocks provide structure. Cottage garden plants are generally loved by bees and other nectar-seeking insects. A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil E moist soil F wet soil HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met 1 Monkshood, Aconitum carmichaelii Arendsii Group; h4 ft (1.2 m) s12 in (30 cm) ABdE H8–3 2 Golden marguerite, Anthemis tinctoria ‘E.C. Buxton’; h24 in (60 cm) s36 in (90 cm) Ad H8–3 3 Aquilegia formosa; h24 in (60 cm) s18 in (45 cm) ABE H7–1 ‘Moonbeam’; h20 in (50 cm) s24 in (60 cm)ABd H9–1 h4 ft (1.2 m) s24 in (60 cm) ADe H8–1 s18 in (45 cm) BE H9–1 cm) ABe H7–5 ABDe H8–1 4 Coreopsis verticillata 5 Cirsium rivulare ‘Atropurpureum’; 6 Bleeding heart, Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’; h4 ft (1.2 m) 7 Anemone hupehensis ‘Hadspen Abundance’; h24 in (60 cm) s16 in (40 8 Meadow cranesbill, Geranium pratense ‘Mrs. Kendall Clark’; hs24 in (60 cm) 9 Lupin, Lupinus ‘Inverewe Red’; h36 in (90 cm) s24 in (60 cm) ABD H10–6 0 Hollyhock, Alcea rosea Chater’s Double Group; h8 ft (2.4 m) s24 in (60 cm)Ad H10–3 q Astrantia major; h36 in (90 cm) s18 in (45 cm) ABe H7–1 BEAUTIFUL BEDS 69 SELECTIONS >> << a Autumnal tones This design looks beautiful in autumn, when the seedheads of late-flowering perennials offer shades of copper and bronze. a Winter structure The plants have a strong structure, so their stems and seedheads remain intact all winter, for the benefit of birds and wildlife. << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Prairie partners Popularized by Dutch garden designer Piet Oudolf, prairie planting designs use dramatic swathes of grasses alongside perennials that have a strong structure in winter. Particularly suitable for larger gardens, these borders are often at their most beautiful in autumn and winter, a time when many perennial beds are lackluster and dull. PREPARATION WHEN TO START Spring or autumn AT ITS BEST Late summer to early winter TIME TO COMPLETE 4 hours YOU WILL NEED Well-rotted organic matter, such as manure Horticultural grit for clay soils 1. Deschampsia cespitosa 2. Sedum spectabile 3. Echinacea purpurea ‘Rubinstern’ 4. Lythrum virgatum 5. Eupatorium 5 1 It is important to dig over the soil thoroughly and incorporate plenty of organic matter, such as well-rotted manure, before you start planting. This style of gardening uses groups of plants that enjoy similar well-drained but moist soil, so you will also have to incorporate grit into heavy clay soil (see pp.14–15). PLANTING LAYOUT The prairie planting style uses interlocking swathes of plants, with each swathe comprising just one species or type of plant. To create this effect, you will need lots of plants, so buy young ones to minimize costs. If you have a small garden, follow the same rules for larger plots but reduce the number of different species used. Set your plants out in teardrop-shaped swathes, with the narrow sections neatly slotting together. CUT BACK IN SPRING This border is designed to look good all winter long, so you must resist the temptation to cut it all back or neaten it too much in autumn. Most cutting back can be left until early spring, when new shoots appear at the base of the plants. If some areas start to look really messy, neaten stray stems earlier. 4 3 2 71 72 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Flowers for cutting and drying One of the greatest pleasures of owning a garden is growing an abundance of flowers, many of which can be picked and brought indoors to decorate the house as well. Some are particularly well suited to cutting, while others can be harvested and dried to last into winter and beyond. Cutting FLOWERS FOR CUTTING Many plants can be cut frequently with little impact on the garden display; they just keep on producing more flowers. Plant a cutting border full of such varieties. Allium Alstroemeria Antirrhinum Chrysanthemum Cleome Cornflower, Centaurea Cosmos Daffodil Dahlia Foxglove, Digitalis Peony (above) Rudbeckia Sunflower Sweet pea Sweet William Tulip Zinnia WHEN TO START Autumn or spring AT THEIR BEST Spring to late summer TIME TO COMPLETE 5 hours for sowing and pricking out 2 hours for planting YOU WILL NEED Seeds of annuals Bulbs Perennials Spade Well-rotted organic matter, such as manure Watering can PLANT IN SWATHES Clear the area of weeds, and dig in organic matter. In autumn, plant bulbs and mark their positions (see pp.40–41). Then, in spring, plant large swathes of perennials and annuals (see pp.30–31 and pp.108–110), so you can cut the flowers regularly without leaving large gaps in the border. PICK AND MIX When you are planning to pick your flowers, water the area well the night before. This helps stems plump up, and the cut flowers will keep for longer. It is best to cut first thing in the morning, plunging the stems immediately into a deep bucket of water. Always cut to just above a leaf. << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Drying Some flowers retain their colors and scents when they are cut and dried, and can be used in flower arrangements throughout the year. Seedheads look striking in indoor arrangements too, but leave some on the plants if you want a dramatic winter border. WHEN TO START Summer to autumn AT THEIR BEST All year round TIME TO COMPLETE About 2 weeks for drying YOU WILL NEED Flowers for drying Rubber bands Tacks or pins Hooks or paperclips String PLANT AND SOW Several perennials are useful as dried flowers, but you may want to sow some annuals too. Sow half-hardy annuals into modules or pots indoors in spring, planting out when all risk of frost has passed (see pp.108–110). Hardy annuals can be sown direct in autumn or spring. Water, feed, and deadhead as you would any other plant. CUT IN DRY WEATHER Pick flowers for drying in fine weather to avoid excess moisture on the foliage and petals. Most flowers will dry better if they are cut before they are fully open. Pick roses just as the buds begin to open, and lavender stems as the top petals start to emerge. AIR-DRY THE BLOOMS Tie a few stems together with string or a rubber band. Use a kitchen hook or a paper clip to attach the band to a line of string or tie them to a bamboo cane. Then fix the string or cane to the ceiling in a cool, airy place. Because strong light bleaches out the colors, it is best to hang them in the dark, or at least in low light. FLOWERS FOR DRYING Achillea (above) Cornflower, Centaurea Globe thistle, Echinops Hare’s tail, Lagurus Lavender Love-in-a-mist, Nigella Quaking grass, Briza Sea holly, Eryngium Statice, Limonium (above) Strawflower, Xerochrysum (below) 73 << BEAUTIFUL BEDS Textured edge A striking design such as this should be treated as a modern take on bedding. The perennials will last far longer than annual plants, but the formal effect will eventually lose its crispness as they grow. MARK OUT YOUR PATTERN WHEN TO PLANT Autumn or spring Chose a sunny site and improve the soil with organic matter before planting, then use sand or string to mark out lines to create the formal, parallel effect. Space out the plants to allow room for them to spread. AT ITS BEST Early summer TIME TO COMPLETE 2 hours YOU WILL NEED PLANT OUT Sand or string Well-rotted organic matter, such as manure 1. Iris chrysographes 'Black Knight' 2. Salvia x sylvestris ‘Mainacht' 3. Heuchera ‘Beauty Colour’ 4. Feather grass, Stipa tenuissima 5. Persicaria microcephala ‘Red Dragon’ 6. Angelica archangelica Plant the tall Persicaria at the back, and the Heuchera and Salvia at the front to form a neat carpet. Use accent plants, such as Angelica, to add interest to the pattern. AFTERCARE You may have to lift and replant every few years to keep the pattern strong. Experiment with rows of different plants until you find a combination that is well suited to your conditions. 6 1 5 4 2 3 75 76 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Lay a gravel bed Drought-tolerant plants that originate from arid, rocky places look most at home in a gravel garden. Ideal for a hot, sunny spot, a gravel border is easy to make, and can create a mosaic of colors and textures in areas where other plants struggle to survive. WHEN TO START Spring AT ITS BEST Summer TIME TO COMPLETE 6 hours YOU WILL NEED Drought-loving plants Horticultural grit Washed sand Landscape fabric Scissors Galvanized staples Watering can Gravel Boulders PREPARE THE AREA Dig over the area thoroughly and remove any weeds. You need a well-drained soil to keep drought-tolerant plants happy, so dig in washed sand and horticultural grit to make sure that yours drains freely, even in wet weather. LAY MEMBRANE Weed-suppressing membrane or landscape fabric allows rain to soak through to the roots, yet prevents weeds from growing. Lay it over the entire area, overlapping the edges and pinning them down with galvanized staples as you go. << BEAUTIFUL BEDS CUT CROSSES FOR PLANTS Place your plants in their positions on the landscape fabric, and then arrange them to create a pleasing display. For each plant, cut a cross in the fabric, and fold back the flaps. Self-seeded gravel garden A slightly different style of gravel garden uses no landscape fabric. Plants are left to self-seed and create a wonderfully natural effect, but make sure you remove every scrap of perennial weed during the preparation. ENCOURAGE SEEDING PLANT THROUGH FABRIC Dig a hole and plant your plants at the same depth they were at in their pots. Add a little fertilizer to the back-filled soil, and firm it in. Replace the fabric to fit around the stems. Both weeds and seedlings of desired plants will spring up in a gravel bed, and it is important to learn the difference between them. You may have to allow weeds to grow larger than you would ideally like to identify them. In addition, take a relaxed approach to deadheading; seeds will never get the chance to form if the flowers are cut off the moment they start to fade. 1 Eryngium giganteum H36 in (90 cm) S12 in (30 cm) 2 Meconopsis cambrica H18 in (45 cm) S10 in (25 cm) 3 Nigella damascena Persian Jewel Group H16 in (40 cm) S9 in (23 cm) 4 Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea H5 ft (1.5 m) S24 in (60 cm) SPREAD GRAVEL MULCH Once all of the plants have been watered in, spread a 2 in (5 cm) layer of gravel over the entire area. You may need to top this up occasionally to keep the garden looking its best. Water the plants in dry spells for the first year. OTHER PLANTING OPTIONS Alchemilla mollis Alyssum Aquilegias Eschscholzia Feverfew Nasturtiums Shirley poppies Snapdragon Stipa tenuissima Verbena bonariensis 77 SELECTIONS >> 78 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Mediterranean-style plants Many of the plants that we associate with vacations abroad grow well in cooler climates, particularly in a well-drained, sandy soil. Choose those with bold shapes and silvery foliage to evoke Mediterranean memories, and throw in a few with vivid flowers, such as Hibiscus, to brighten things up. Keep plants with aromatic leaves, such as Cistus, nearby. They release spicy oils as the sun warms them, and will transport you back to lazy days. A full sun B partial sun C full shade D well-drained soil E moist soil F wet soil HARDINESS ZONES (H): coldest zone needed to flourish and warmest zone in which plant’s cold requirements are met 1 Rock rose, Cistus x dansereaui ‘Decumbens’; h16 in (40 cm) s24 in (60 cm) Ad H8–7 bugloss, Echium vulgare ‘Blue Bedder’; h20 in (50 cm) s12 in (30 cm) Ad H8–1 ‘Sundowner’; hs6 ft (2 m) Ad H10–1 (50 cm) Ad H8–5 H8–5 2 Viper’s 3 Phormium 4 Sea holly, Eryngium x tripartitum; h32 in (80 cm) s20 in 5 Myrtle spurge, Euphorbia myrsinites; h4 in (10 cm) s12 in (30 cm) Ad 6 Eriobotrya japonica; hs25 ft (8 m) Ad H12–8 s6 ft (2 m) Ad H12–1 7 Oleander, Nerium oleander; h10 ft (3 m) 8 Cardoon, Cynara cardunculus; h 5 ft (1.5 m) s4 ft (1.2 m) Ad H9–1 9 Anthemis punctata subsp. cupaniana; h12 in (30 cm) s36 in (90 cm) Ad H9–6 syriacus ‘Boule de Feu’; h10 ft (3 m) s6 ft (2 m) Ad H9–1 hs12 in (30 cm) Ad H8–5 0 Hibiscus q Lavandula angustifolia ‘Nana Alba’; BEAUTIFUL BEDS 79 SELECTIONS >> << 80 BEAUTIFUL BEDS >> Plant by a hedge Hedges make beautiful backdrops to beds and borders, as well as providing superb habitats for wildlife, but they present their own problems. The soil close to a hedge is usually dry and it can shade the planting in front, but choose carefully and both plants and hedge will thrive. PLANTING IN A SUNNY SITE In south-facing gardens, hedges can help shade plants that receive the full force of the summer sun almost all day. However, for both the hedge and plants to succeed, they need sufficient water. When planting (see pp.192–197 for methods) dig plenty of organic matter, such